I've been in Nairobi for a few days now, and have loved it more and more as I see new things and meet new people. The first night I was here was the day before Madaraka day (Kenyan independence day) so Nairobi was crazy. Expats and Kenyans alike were out celebrating that night, into the early hours of the morning. Despite all the warnings about the crime here in "Nairobbery," I've felt pretty safe walking around where I'm staying. Of course, like any big city, you'd be asking for trouble if you walked around at night and flashed them dolla bills, or shillings, I should say.Post-Madaraka, I tagged along on a one-day safari to Lake Nakuru with a guy who's visiting from Chicago. It was pretty amazing, to say the least. We saw all kinds of animals, up close: rhinos, buffaloes, flamingos, giraffes, baboons, hyenas, antelopes, gazelles, Pumba (warthogs), etc. There are several lookout points that offer surreal panoramic landscapes of acacia forest, savanna, and water, dotted with herds of animals. Even the dirt here has this really rich red color that makes the different plants pop.
I spent half a day hitting some of the tourist stops in Nairobi. This little adventure focused on getting up close and personal with giraffes and crocodiles. Pretty cool. Giraffes are one of the neatest animals I've ever seen. They're like the basketball players of African wildlife--tall, lanky, with a swagger in their gait. Although, their eyeballs are much bigger than I expected and their tongues are ridiculously slimy--antiseptic, I learned. Crocodiles have really soft underbellies, no tongues, and a suction-like snap to their grill that cracks big bamboo sticks. Oh! They've also got two eyelids, allowing them to keep the inner translucent one closed underwater, so they can see excellently. We also stopped by Karen Blixen Museum, the second Kenyan home of the author of Out of Africa (inspired the movie of the same title with Robert Redford and Meryl Streep).
Other than that, I've just been hanging out here, meeting a ton of people, mostly expats, but some Kenyans. Went out for nyama choma last night with Kanyi, a Kenyan from Stanford--so good. Literally, a kilo or two of grilled meat on a platter with ugali and some version of salsa, eaten with your hands. Paired with a cold Tusker or Pilsner--excellent. This place, Njuguna's, I believe it was called was definitely not an expat spot, which was refreshing. The bars and clubs that cater to expats also have a much different vibe than those that have a primarily Kenyan clientele. Both groups however, go hard. I mean, until 4 or 5am regularly. And Kenyans can drink.
Other fun foods I've tried here in Nairobi for the first time ever were not actually Kenyan, but Ethiopian and Korean bbq. Both good, but only Ethiopian was eaten with the hands. That's basically what's been keeping me busy in Nairobi--people, food, and drinks. I did stop through Kibera, however, to check out Josh's work with Carolina for Kibera. Literally a bike ride away from a nice part of town, this place was heartbreaking to see--all the buildings made of mud and those corrugated tin/aluminum sheets, packed with people, covered with rubbish. But the work that CFK does there is pretty admirable. Also went to Blankets & Wine, a little music festival at Mamba Village the first Sunday of every month. Pretty low key fun.
Tomorrow, I'm off on another safari--this time, a serious three day, two night lodge stay in Maasai Mara. Then, it's off to the coast for Mombasa, Diani, and Lamu, before I head out to other East African countries for a week or so. Hoping to find people to wander around with, because without all of you back home, it gets pretty lonely sometimes. Maybe on the romantic little island of Lamu I'll pick up some new friends. Ha.
The pics take too long to upload onto the blog, so check the facebook album if you're curious:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2009843800269.2116318.1068930008&l=70faf85844
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