Witch Doctored

I've now had two experiences with traditional Guatemalan medicine. The first time was a couple years back when I was working in Pueblo Nuevo. One day I was incapacitated by awful cramps. It felt like my insides were twisting themselves into knots. I was supposed to lead a hike that day but I could hardly sit up it hurt so bad...and I'd like to think I have a decently high pain threshold. The woman with whom I was staying used to be a witch doctor, before she became a midwife and married the community pastor. She pulled out this secret pomada of hers--a deep berry red and pasty like Mexican tamarind candy. She had me drink half a cup of tea made from boiled roots and herbs and things I couldn't quite distinguish. Afterward, she rubbed this pomada on my back and stomach while chanting something in Mam--an indigenous Mayan language that other Guatemalans call the "devil's language"--I couldn't understand. Within the hour, I was up on my feet and hiking up to the waterfall. Maybe placebo, maybe not.

My second encounter was here in San Lucas, just yesterday. My man and I broke things off and I was feeling pretty down about it. I don't like to talk to a bajillion people about my issues, but being a guest here with Angel, everyone noticed. Awesome. I didn't say much about it, because there isn't much to say and I didn't really want to talk about it. It was their opinions about my relationship that led me to say things that ultimately ended it in the first place. For something that was supposed to be the right decision, it felt pretty awful and wrong. Every time it was brought up, I'd nod my head and try to focus on something else, willing the tears that welled up in my eyes to find their way back into my tear ducts. To cure what they called my "enfermedad del corazon, or del amor" they had me drink some kinda crazy tea boiled with orange peels and "gotas de maravillosa," the secret ingredient. I didn't believe for a second that this could possibly affect whatever was happening in my head and heart, but coincidentally enough, I felt...I dunno...better. Ha. Mas tranquila, as they described it. Nonetheless, as appreciative as I am of their concern for the health of my corazon, I'm still looking forward to returning to my apartment where I can take full advantage of being by myself and not having to explain the faces I make or the thoughts I have. So far, Guatemalan with doctor medicine, you win 2 for 2, placebo or not. Might be time for another dose.